Johanitter - Danish white wine is more than Solaris!
Whenever I have been tasting Danish whites, I seem to have focused almost exclusively on Solaris.
Well, it also makes sense, as Solaris adapts so well to "better" Danish summers, where it ripens very well and can accumulate reasonable, yet not extreme sugar levels. In superb seasons like 2016 it easily goes astray in terms of sugar and you end up very high in alcohol. Not desirable!
In another post, I shall come back in more details on Solaris in such a vintage.
Along with whites, what Denmark has to focus on is sparklers. Acidity is always there and you don't want high alcohol levels, so with its marginal climate Denmark ought to be able to develope in a way similar to England, even if our climate is even more marginal.
And we have already a perfect variety for the purpose, Johanitter!
Dyrehøj Vingaard is situated on Røsnæs on the very western tip of Zealand and the climate there is always among the driest and sunniest of Denmark and both Solaris and Johanitter thrive there.
Since 2016, New Zealand born and raised Zachary Brierly is the winemaker and he has already proven himself in the ultra ripe 2016 vintage, eg. with the Johanitter Reserve.
Johanitter, a crossing between Riesling and Seyve Villard, does not reach the sugar levels of Solaris and has fine acidity levels, even in warmer years.
2016 RÖS Johanitter Reserve has a clear, almost shiny yellow color. On the nose it is clean with a medium intensity of aromas of pear, ripe Granny Smith, a touch of melon, backed up by lots of citrus, mostly ripe lemon, and definite mineral (chalky and salty) notes. Aromas are still developing.
The wine is bone dry with high acidity, but the acidity is only caressing and life giving. The wine is genuinely mouthwatering. Medium + flavour intensity. Flavours match very well the aromas, only does the lemon turn to grape notes on the lively finish.
The wine only carries 11,5% abv and is medium bodied with a medium + length.
Drinks beautifully now, but could easily be cellared for several years to come.
I think, it is a very good wine and it really reminds me more of Chablis than of Riesling, and I should love to enjoy it with oysters, flounder or the like or even some dishes with chicken. But, don't forget the lemon!